Sunday, January 22, 2012

Health professor challenges Paula Deen to a cook-off

(CNN) -- "I'm just gonna put a little more butter in there, y'all," she said as she plopped a large chunk into the skillet. "Oh my," she added, "I've gone and put a whole stick in by now."

I was watching Paula Deen on the Food Network, whipping up a shrimp saut to go over pasta. I thought to myself, "I could make a similar dish that would look much better (hers was murky from all the butter), taste much better (fresh, clean flavors from a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, dry vermouth and herbs), with a fraction of the fat and calories."

Later that day, I read about Deen's revelation that she had been diagnosed with type 2 diabetes three years ago and is now a paid spokeswoman for Novo Nordisk, the pharmaceutical company that supplies her diabetes medication. She says the diagnosis will not change the way she cooks.

What a shame! Like many people, Deen has genes that predispose to weight gain, insulin resistance, metabolic syndrome and type 2 diabetes when physical activity is insufficient and calories are consumed in excess, especially from quick-digesting carbohydrate foods that cause spikes of blood sugar. Type 2 diabetes is a serious condition that greatly increases risks of cardiovascular disease, disability and premature death.

The good news is that many, if not most, cases can be put into remission through lifestyle changes: losing weight, increasing activity and adhering to a low-glycemic-load diet, especially minimizing consumption of flour and sugar.

Taking a drug to lower blood sugar without making those lifestyle changes is a classic example of trying to deal with a problem without going to the root of it. (Another is taking a pill to suppress stomach acid so that you can eat foods that cause heartburn without it.)

Eatocracy: Hugh Acheson on Southern food beyond the butter

The queen of high-fat, high-calorie "Southern comfort" food likes to say that she encourages her followers to practice moderation in eating her rich dishes. How about using her charm and culinary skills to teach them to make healthier versions of those dishes without sacrificing flavor or any of the pleasure of eating?

If she doesn't think that's possible, I'd encourage her to eat at one of the True Food Kitchen restaurants in Arizona and California.

The food there is designed to emphasize flavor and pleasure along with good nutrition. Too many of us -- including Deen, I would guess -- think that food that's good and food that's good for you are in opposition. Unless you have experienced truly delicious, healthy food, you won't believe it exists.

The Food Network has become a major entertainment channel. A lot of people watch it.

Sadly, most of the shows focus on making (or eating huge portions) of just the kinds of foods that promote obesity and all too often the disturbances of metabolism that can lead to type 2 diabetes. The societal problems resulting from our unhealthy eating habits are grave; for one, the Defense Department has expressed concern that the obesity epidemic in young people is shrinking the pool of acceptable applicants for military service. The Food Network could begin doing public service by teaching people to prepare more sensible meals.

It could start with you, Paula Deen. You have the perfect reason to change your ways and the perfect platform to disseminate your message. Forget Novo Nordisk. Show your loyal fans how not to need diabetes drugs. And whenever you're ready to accept my challenge for a shrimp saut cook-off, y'all just let me know.

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